Fabric and method of making same



Patented Aug. 16, 1938 PATENT OFFICE FABRIC AND METHOD F MAKING SAME George Schneider, Montclair, N. 1., assignor to Celanese Corporation of America, a corpora-- tion of Delaware No Drawing.

6 Claims.

This invention relates to the preparation of stiffened fabrics and also to wearing apparel formed in whole or in part of such stiffened fabrics.

An object of my invention is to prepare fabrics of any desired degree of increased stiffness and in a simple and expeditious manner. A further object of my invention is to prepare wearing apparel consisting of or containing such stiff- 10 ened fabric. Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description.

In the making of stiffened fabrics by causing cellulose acetate or other derivative of cellulose filaments to at least partially coalesce, many considerations enter that are of great importance both from the point of view of manipulative steps and coalescing agents that may be employed by manufacturers who would ordinarily engage in such work and also from the point of view of the properties of the final product. Thus the use of volatile liquids that are active solvents for cellulose acetate, for instance, at ordinary room temperatures present several difficulties, such as rather high costs, disagreeable 0 and often noxious odor, and inability to control the degree of coalescence and consequent stiffening to the desired extent, or the areas where stiffening occurs.

I have found that by using volatile liquids that are not active solvents for cellulose acetate at ordinary temperatures but which attack the same at elevated temperatures, as an aid to cause coalescence upon the application of heat and pressure, many advantageous results are at- 5 tained. Since these liquids are not active so]- vents at ordinary temperatures, the degree of coalescence of the filaments may be controlled to any extent from slight closing of the interstices of the fabric to complete closing thereof, whereby the stiffness, impermeability and other properties of the material may be controlled. Moreover, since coalescence takes place only upon application of heat and pressure, by applying heat and pressure only locally, ornamental or other 0 special effects may be produced.

The products formed by my invention may be used for any purpose where a stiffened and/or relatively impermeable fabric is desired. An important application of such products is wearing 0 apparel which may be formed in whole or in part of fabrics or assembly of fabrics made or prepared in accordance with this invention. Thus collars or cuifs may be formed entirely of the product of this invention.v Alternatively shirts may be made wherein the attached collars, neck- Application August 1, 1934, Serial No. 737,933

bands, cuffs, fronts or bosoms are made of such products. Hats or parts of hats may likewise be formed of such material, as may also be the inner or sweat bands of hats, visors for caps, inner linings for cravats, stiffening material used in the inner portions of garments such as coats to help retain the shape thereof, etc. The fabrics of this invention may be used for a variety of other purposes, and indeed may be used for any industrial or technical purpose where fabric of increased stiffness and/0r impermeability is required.

An important advantage of this invention is that the fabric or assembly of fabrics employed as starting material may first be cut, sewn or otherwise shaped quite readily, since they have the properties of and may behandled as ordinary fabrics. After the desired articles, such as collars, cuffs or other wearing apparel or parts thereof are formed, they may then be treated with the volatile liquid with or without plasticizers or softening agents that stiffens the cellulose acetate after exposure to elevated temperatures and then subjected to heat and pressure to impart the desired stiffness and/or impermeability. In this manner the sewing of stiff or impermeable material is avoided.

Products of this invention have any desired degree of stiffness, which is relatively permanent, so that they may be subjected to repeated laundering without substantially losing their stillness. In this manner the use of starch or other extraneous stiffening materials during laundering may be avoided.

This invention may be carried out in a large number of ways, particularly as to the nature of the fabric or number of fabrics employed, provided that cellulose acetate yarns or filaments are present in the fabric if a single fabric is used, or in at least one of the fabrics if a v plurality of fabrics are used.

There should be-present in the product treated at least one layer of fabric, which either con sists wholly of cellulose acetate yarn, or which is a mixed fabric containing yarn or cellulose acetate alternating either in the warp or in the weft or both, in any desired degree of alternation with yarns of other non-thermoplastic fibers such as cotton, regenerated cellulose, linen, wool or natural silk. This alternation may be for instance 1, 2, 3, or more cellulose acetate yarns with 1, 2, 3 or more yarns of cotton or other non-thermoplastic fibers. For convenience the warp may be made with such alternation of cellulose acetate yarn and yarn of other fibers, while the weft may consist wholly of cellulose acetate yarn or wholly of yarn of other fibers. However the weft may consist of an alternation of cellulose acetate yarns and non-thermoplastic yarns of other fibres, in which case, if the fabric is made in ordinary looms, the alternations will be preferably in twos or multiples of two's. If desired a fabric may be used in which either the warp or the weft consists wholly of cellulose acetate yarn while the other component consists of non-thermoplastic yarn.

Instead of employing a woven fabric, a knitted or netted fabric may be employed. Also a fabric containing mixed yarn containing both filaments of cellulose acetate and fibres of cotton or other non-thermoplastic material may be employed.

Only a, single layer of fabric consisting wholly of cellulose acetate yarn or a single layer of any of the fabrics above described containing both cellulose acetate yarn or filaments and nonthermoplastic fibres may be treated by this invention, whereby relatively thin fabric having the desired degree of stiffness or impermeability throughout or only locally may be produced. Alternatively 2, 3, 4 or more of such fabrics may be treated with the volatile liquid that is a solvent at elevated temperatures and heat and pressure applied to the whole surface to form a composite fabric that is united throughout, or only in local areas by application of heat and pressure only at the desired local areas.

In another, and in some cases preferred method of carrying out the invention, one or more fabrics consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic yarns, such as cotton, linen, reconstituted cellulose, wool or silk, is assembled with one or more fabrics consisting wholly of cellulose acetate yarn or of a mixture of cellulose acetate yarn or filaments and yarn of non-thermoplastic fibres, as above described, may be treated by this invention, whereby a composite fabric made up of a plurality of layers may be made. If a product is to be produced wherein all the layers thereof are united, it is of importance where two or more layers of fabric consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic material is used, that at least one layer of fabric consisting of or containing cellulose acetate yarn be interposed between such layers of fabric.

As instances of the manner that the various fabrics may be assembled, the following are given. In the case of collars, cuffs, etc. where an exterior of cotton or linen is desired, a layer of fabric consisting wholly of or containing cellulose acetate yarn, as above described, may be interposed between two layers of fabric consisting of cotton, linen or other non-thermoplastic fibres. An assembly that is also useful for such purposes comprises three layers of fabric consisting wholly of such non-thermoplastic yarns, with a layer of fabric consisting of or containing cellulose acetate yarn between each of such fabrics.

Where a product is desired having an exterior of fabric made of or containing cellulose acetate, this may be done by interposing a layer of fabric consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic fibres between two layers of fabric consisting of or containing cellulose acetate filaments, or by forming an assembly of three layers of fabric containing or consisting of cellulose acetate yarn with a layer of fabric consisting of non-thermoplastic fibres interposed therebetween. In this case the fabric of non-thermoplastic material may be of the desired construction to impart to the final product such properties as may be required due to its fabric structure.

These arrangements are given only by way of example, it being obvious that other arrangements with a less or greater number of layers of fabric may be employed to obtain any desired effects.

When an assembly of two or more fabrics is used, particularly in connection with wearing apparel or parts thereof suchas collars, cuffs, shirt bosoms, hats, etc., it is advantageous to cut and sew them together to the desired form before causing coalescence of the cellulose acetate filaments, since it is much more convenient to manipulate them before the desired stiffness and/or impermeability is imparted thereto.

The fabric or assembly of fabrics is, in accordance with this invention, treated with a volatile liquid that acts on the cellulose acetate at elevated temperatures so as to cause the same to stiffen, but which is preferably not an active solvent at ordinary temperatures. I prefer to use for this purpose ethyl alcohol (denatured or undenatured) or methyl alcohol containing water or mixture of these, since they are relatively inexpensive. Ethyl alcohol, containing about 20% of water is particularly desirable as its vapors are not toxic or disagreeable. Less advantageously more or less water may be added to the alcohol. Aqueous solutions of ethyl alcohol or of methyl alcohol of 55 to particularly of about 80%, concentration are very useful for this purpose. Another example of a suitable liquid that'may be used is an aqueous solution of the mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol containing say about 20% of water.

The aqueous alcohol or other liquid may be applied to the fabric or assembly of fabrics in any suitable manner, such as by dipping, spraying or brushing. A convenient manner of wetting the fabric or assembly is by padding the same with the liquid. If an assembly of two or more fabrics is treated, both sides of the assembly should be wetted with the liquid, as it is desirable that all of the layers of the fabric present be wetted therewith when heat and pressure is applied.

The so wetted fabric or assembly of fabrics is then subjected to heat and pressure. This may be done by any suitable device, for instance by hot ironing or by passing between pressure rolls, one or both of which are heated, or between a heated roller and a heated or cold plate or surface, or between a heated pressing iron or plate and a cold board or surface. The heating device may be heated to the desired temperatures, for instance to C. or more and the pressure applied may be any desired pressure, for instance from 10 to 600 pounds per square inch.

If heated devices that have desired designs, such as stripes, dots, rectangles or other geometric, floral or other designs, embossed thereon are em ployed, novel effects are obtained. Since the alcohol and like liquids are not solvents for the cellulose acetate at ordinary temperatures, only those portions that come in contact with the embossed portions of the heated device become stiffened and/or united, while the other portions retain the properties of the original fabrics. This local application of heat and pressure may be done by manually operated means if desired.

In order further to illustrate my invention, but without being limited thereto, the following example is given.

Example For making fabrics to be used for making any desired articles there is employed an assembly of two layers of cotton or linen fabric with an interposed layer of fabric consisting wholly of or made of acetone-soluble cellulose acetate filaments or a fabric containing both cellulose acetate yarn and cotton yarn in any of the desired constructions as has been described. This assembly is then wetted on both sides with an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol (denatured) of 80% concentration. Thereupon the-assembly is pressed with a hot iron or calender to cause the cellulose acetate filaments to coalesce to form a stiffening material in which the fabrics are united. By controlling the degree of heat and pressure and/or selection of the type of fabrics employed, the degree of stiffness may be controlled. Generally a semi-stiff fabric is formed, which retains its stiffness after repeated laundering so that the use of starch or like material is not required.

If collars or cuffs or bosoms or other articles which are to be sewn onto shirts or other articles of apparel are to be formed, it is advantageous to cut the assembly of fabrics to the desired shape or form and sew it to the shirt or other article prior to the application of the aqueous alcohol and the heat and pressure so that the assembly is stiffened by wetting with the aqueous alcohol and application of heat and pressure only after the shirt or other article is completed.

The fabrics and articles obtained by this invention may be made more or less stiff as de-- sired by controlling the amount of cellulose acetate yarns or filaments in the assembly 'of fabrics being treated; the more cellulose acetate present, the stiffer the resultant products. The fabrics or other articles may be rendered softer by the incorporation of plasticizers, such as diethyl phthalate, dimethyl phthalate, dibutyl tartrate, etc., in the aqueous alcohol or onto or in the fabrics containing the cellulose acetate filaments or yarns.

While this invention has been described particularly in connection with yarns or filaments of cellulose acetate, such cellulose acetate yarns or filaments may be replaced in whole or in part by yarns or filaments of other derivatives of cellulose such as cellulose formate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate, or other organic esters of cellulose such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose or other cellulose ethers, in which case suitable liquids having the required properties for aiding coalescence under heat and pressure will be selected.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustration and many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of a plurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filaments of a thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and another of which consists wholly of nonthermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol,

aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

2. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of a plurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filaments of cellulose acetate and another of which consists wholly of non-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heatand pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

3. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of two cotton or linen fabrics with an intermediate layer of fabric comprising thermoplastic derivative of cellulose yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

4. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of two cotton or linen fabrics with an intermediate layer of fabric comprising cellulose acetate yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

5. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of a plurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filaments of a thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and another of which consists wholly of non-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a plasticizer for the derivative of cellulose and a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

6. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearing apparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of a plurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filaments of cellulose acetate and another of which consists wholly of non-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure at least locally to the assembly in the presence of a plasticizer for the cellulose acetate and a latent solvent selected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

GEORGE SCHNEIDER.

CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION. Patent No. 2,126, 20. August 16, 1958.

GEORGE SCHNEIDER. It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 1, second column, line L B, for the word "or" read of; and that the said Letters Patent shouldbe read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 20th day of September, A. D. 1958 Henry Van Arsdale (Seal) Acting Commissioner .of Patents. 

